Oil is on the rebound. No, not light, sweet Brent crude, we’re talking jojoba, neem, argan and more. Oils are ubiquitous in personal care formulas these days; they’re used to moisturize, cleanse and pamper. That’s a 180° turn from only a few year ago, when oils were considered to be the cause of many skin maladies. But today, dermatologists and formulators recognize that oils can play a key role in keeping skin and hair looking healthy and youthful.

For example, L’Oréal Paris is rolling out Age Perfect Hydra-Nutrition Facial Oil SPF 30. The formula contains not one, but eight essential oils (chamomile, lavender, English lavender, marjoram, peppermint, orange, rosemary and geranium). Together, they are said to impart long-lasting hydration. For more on oils and the growing importance that they play in skin care, see I Want It All.


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But not every formulator is aware of what oil brings to the table. According to some industry observers, the clinical benefits of natural oils are not so well known. Extracts & Ingredients is out to spread the news about goodness of these materials. The company held one-day symposia, dubbed Awesome Oils, in California and New Jersey to explain the benefits of including jojoba and other oils in their products. The events included presentations by Dermatologist Jeanette Jacknin, MD, “Forgotten Clinical Benefits of Jojoba Oil…a Classic;” Dr. Vijai Shukla, International Cosmetic Science Centre Denmark, “New Horizons in the Application of Naturals in Cosmetics Through Internal Stabilization Technology;” Steve Hughes, Hughes & Company Ltd., “Intro to Essential Oils” and Jonathan Regev, managing director, Jojoba Desert Ltd., “Global Supply Issues for Jojoba Oil.”


Jacknin told attendees, that jojoba is non-irritating and even has sunscreen applications. The seed is 50% oil by weight, with 10% of global production coming from the US; Israel accounts for most of the world’s supply.


“It is the only plant source of wax mono esters; jojoba is very similar to human sebum,” she explained.


Jacknin pointed out that it is a great vehicle to promote percutaneous absorption of vitamins and other compounds. It’s no wonder, then, that 95% of jojoba ends up in personal care and health care products. Jojoba has been proven to increase skin elasticity and reduce the appearance of fine lines in just one hour. “It provides a mini facelift,” she insisted.


Jojoba is an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and even has antimicrobial properties according to Jacknin. It not only moisturizes and softens the skin by forming a lipid barrier, it also has applications as a makeup remover, nail and cuticle treatment, and improves both oily and dry hair.


Take Care of Your Oils


In his remarks, Shukla noted that inflammation is the cause of all disease, while omega 3 fatty acids reduce inflammation and may help lower risk of chronic diseases such as heart disease, cancer and arthritis. Clearly, lipids play a dominant role in human health, but Shukla warned that oxidation is the enemy of everything; especially oils. He explained that several factors impact lipid stability, including light, heat, water, enzymes and oxygen.

“Oils are so sensitive, so don’t torture them!” he joked.

Shukla noted that cosmetic chemists battle fight crystallization of fats all the time. To win the battle, he recommended heating batches to 80°C.

The health benefits of oils are obvious. Consulting Chemist Susan Piso provided several formulations to attendees including anhydrous jojoba serum, “skin food” night cream and “good to go” anhydrous hand balm.

With so many oils to choose from and so many personal care applications to use them, it’s no wonder Extracts & Ingredients and its partners are so bullish about the boom in oil.